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Post by Joseph Rivera on Mar 3, 2013 20:01:41 GMT -5
Iron Cast
Or
Aluminum Cast ?
Please quote in this thread just for my sake cause I never get notifications.
*UPDATE*
I know that i have this thread as 'SR20DE'.
The reason on why i am stating below '-T' is beacause you will never order a SR without a turbo. I was just trying to find out which would be better bone stock as non-aspirated, KA24DE won. But considering the fact that i will be wanting to have a turbo engine in the end i am posting regards to Turboing a KA and buying a Turboed SR.
KA24DE - FREE
-Iron Cast (Heavier than alluminum, but stronger and harder to warp under heat)
-Needs Rebuilding (In most cases if turboing)
-Comes in Automatic and Manual (Automatic if you were not lucky)
-Turbo Kit Needed If Turboing ($800.00+)
-Requires Turbo Supporting Mods
-Great Cooling and Oil Spread
-Local Parts Available
-Not Great in Aftermarket Support
-155HP Average
SR20DE-T - $1750.00 (Redtop)
-Alluminum Cast (Lighter than iron, but weaker and easier to warp under heat)
*Bigger Radiator, Bugger FMIC, Oil Cooler, CAI, Colder Thermo.
-Needs Rebuilding Only Past 375HP (Safe number)
-Comes in Manual (Automatic if you order automatic)
*Versus Doing Manual Swap on Auto KA ($1000.00)
-Turbo Supporting Mods With Swap
-Comes Turboed With T25
-Crap Cooling and Oil Spread
-Local Parts Not So Available (Part Source etc.)
-Great in Aftermarket Support
-205HP Average 8PSI (218HP 10PSI Boost)
I chose to do SR20DE-T due to the fact i want a turboed vehicle and because its cheaper to build and just comes out cheaper then the KA. Lighter, funner, more people can help on forums, better aftermarket mods, and RELIABLE! I will not be tracking this motor as it is my summer daily driver and she will be babied and well taken care of and therefore i do not need gobs of power, otherwise i would have chose the KA and pushed past 550HP. Hope this helps others out there and i will actually be posting a list of interchangeable parts from local american cars that will fit SR if need replacing.
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keegzrz
look at me now
Locks so lucious even bears want my porridge.
Posts: 198
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Post by keegzrz on Mar 3, 2013 22:33:06 GMT -5
From what I've gathered, the KA24DE can be a deadly platform if you're looking for an all out build. The SR20, however, has much more to offer out of the box and will provide better bang for your buck in the early stages.
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Post by Joseph Rivera on Mar 3, 2013 22:35:44 GMT -5
From what I've gathered, the KA24DE can be a deadly platform if you're looking for an all out build. The SR20, however, has much more to offer out of the box and will provide better bang for your buck in the early stages. How does it offer more out of the box? stock vs stock. Both NA. |
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Post by FoVeoPhotography on Mar 3, 2013 23:33:28 GMT -5
If we're talking stock as in using it stock with no modifications the sr20de has more top end power. however, the ka24de has more torque. parts for either are generally fairly cheap. ka's moreso around here as their more common.
now price wise you can build a ka24de-t or but a sr20det for much less.
sr20's in general are a more common preformance engine, where as people just throw away a ka for an sr. The sr has power, it has a reputation, its common, its easy.
But in the end it all depends what you want out of the engine. also ive heard of people running ka's on some pretty retarded boost pressures.
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Post by Joseph Rivera on Mar 3, 2013 23:50:07 GMT -5
If we're talking stock as in using it stock with no modifications the sr20de has more top end power. however, the ka24de has more torque. parts for either are generally fairly cheap. ka's moreso around here as their more common. now price wise you can build a ka24de-t or but a sr20det for much less. sr20's in general are a more common preformance engine, where as people just throw away a ka for an sr. The sr has power, it has a reputation, its common, its easy. But in the end it all depends what you want out of the engine. also ive heard of people running ka's on some pretty retarded boost pressures. For a daily driver & not track what would you recommend to build as a fun build. |
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keegzrz
look at me now
Locks so lucious even bears want my porridge.
Posts: 198
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Post by keegzrz on Mar 4, 2013 0:35:20 GMT -5
Ohhh sorry, I missed the the lack of T in SR20DE. I was assuming SR20DET compared to N/A KA24DE  For DD, I would guess that the SR20DET would be a funner/better build. |
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Post by Joseph Rivera on Mar 4, 2013 0:38:22 GMT -5
Ohhh sorry, I missed the the lack of T in SR20DE. I was assuming SR20DET compared to N/A KA24DE For DD, I would guess that the SR20DET would be a funner/better build. Yeah non aspirated. Haha. so anything changed cause you notice that its NA? Or still same? |
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keegzrz
look at me now
Locks so lucious even bears want my porridge.
Posts: 198
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Post by keegzrz on Mar 4, 2013 9:18:07 GMT -5
Honestly, my nissan info is fairly limited, so I dont think I can comment on n/a vs n/a. From what I gathered on the wiki, the differences between the two are small, leading me to believe that best build will be the one with easier access/cheaper parts.
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Post by Joseph Rivera on Mar 4, 2013 12:33:12 GMT -5
Honestly, my nissan info is fairly limited, so I dont think I can comment on n/a vs n/a. From what I gathered on the wiki, the differences between the two are small, leading me to believe that best build will be the one with easier access/cheaper parts. Fair well thanks a lot for the input =). I will be making another thread concerning what's a rebuild as I have not much information on that topic. |
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Post by Beans on Mar 4, 2013 20:56:29 GMT -5
SR20DET or RB25det or RB26det or LSX
Those are your only choices imo. Why you would go N/A is beyond me. Nissan engines are complete shit if they are N/A, it's not like Honda.
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Post by Joseph Rivera on Mar 4, 2013 21:08:22 GMT -5
SR20DET or RB25det or RB26det or LSX Those are your only choices imo. Why you would go N/A is beyond me. Nissan engines are complete shit if they are N/A, it's not like Honda. I will be building whatever engine I settle on & I never said I was going na haha. & remember I won't be tracking. As This will be my summer fun cruiser. |
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Post by Beans on Mar 4, 2013 21:34:38 GMT -5
I understand that but you will be wasting your money. I've seen N/A ka's and sr's at 12.1 cp with cams only breaking 200 whp.... and those engine all have 10 grand into them running $2500 ITB's. There are few 4 or 6 cylinder engines that respond well to N/A mods. Neither a ka or a sr fall into that category.
Buy a Turbo SR or RB, keep it stock, and throw it into your car.You will have more reliable power, while keeping your budget at half the price. Not to mention about 50 more whp and 100 more wtq.
But hey do what you want. I promise if you go the N/A route with a ka or sr you WILL regret it.
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Post by Joseph Rivera on Mar 4, 2013 22:03:07 GMT -5
I understand that but you will be wasting your money. I've seen N/A ka's and sr's at 12.1 cp with cams only breaking 200 whp.... and those engine all have 10 grand into them running $2500 ITB's. There are few 4 or 6 cylinder engines that respond well to N/A mods. Neither a ka or a sr fall into that category. Buy a Turbo SR or RB, keep it stock, and throw it into your car.You will have more reliable power, while keeping your budget at half the price. Not to mention about 50 more whp and 100 more wtq. But hey do what you want. I promise if you go the N/A route with a ka or sr you WILL regret it. in my last post I said I wasn't going na in all my question is if these 2 engines as non aspirated prior to rebuilding & modifying (turbo) would be great starting block. |
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Post by Beans on Mar 4, 2013 22:08:39 GMT -5
Honestly I'm having a hard time understanding your posts.
Iron vs Aluminum
Why Iron?
Because it's strong. You can boost that bitch and the last thing you will have to worry about is are the sleeves.
Why Aluminum?
Well because it's better than Iron in almost every single way, besides shear strength. It will dissipate heat more evenly, and quicker. Less heat means less wear on your engine. Aluminum blocks usually have iron wall inserts anyhow. And depending on the sleeve it can hold up to 1000 whp + easy.
open vs closed deck is another story.
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Post by Joseph Rivera on Mar 4, 2013 22:43:28 GMT -5
Honestly I'm having a hard time understanding your posts. Iron vs Aluminum Why Iron? Because it's strong. You can boost that bitch and the last thing you will have to worry about is are the sleeves. Why Aluminum? Well because it's better than Iron in almost every single way, besides shear strength. It will dissipate heat more evenly, and quicker. Less heat means less wear on your engine. Aluminum blocks usually have iron wall inserts anyhow. And depending on the sleeve it can hold up to 1000 whp + easy. open vs closed deck is another story. Now see these are things I am looking for & need to know ! Well said. & sleeves? What you mean by open or closed? |
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