Mikie
exist!!!!
Posts: 62
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Post by Mikie on Feb 24, 2013 14:06:50 GMT -5
I was just bored on the Internet and was looking at some parts on a few different websites and so I decided to start a thread on people's ideal suspension set ups...
What is your current suspension set up on your car?
And...
What would your ideal suspension set up be?
Ill start...
So currently I only have h&r lowering springs with tokico struts on my car, my car is an SI model so it did come with a factory front sway bar... This summer I will be throwing a oem jdm eg6 13mm rear sway bar on, buddy club p1 LCA's, spoon sports lower tie bar, spoon sports front and rear strut bars... And ill see how that works for me.
My ideal suspension set up would be pretty much the same as what I have except maybe some coilovers (probably the spoon dc2 dampers and springs) and upgrade the rear sway bar to a 23mm jdm one with the beaks reinforcement kit, and instead of the buddy clubs I'd throw oem dc2 Lcas on the back for a low profile look.
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keegzrz
look at me now
Locks so lucious even bears want my porridge.
Posts: 198
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Post by keegzrz on Feb 24, 2013 15:31:55 GMT -5
My ideal setup would be to add/replace with:
Whiteline 24mm rear sway bar
Frontline Fab Traction bar (to go with next years motor swap)
Fully redo the bushings w/ poly
Some LS Mesh Rims w/ sticky rubber.
I already have ksports, front & rear stbs, and adjustable rear endlinks.
After that & the motorswap, aside from super expensive bodywork, the car would be complete.
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Mikie
exist!!!!
Posts: 62
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Post by Mikie on Feb 24, 2013 16:38:18 GMT -5
I seen on jhpusa they are starting to carry a bunch of whiteline parts.
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Post by Jiggypop.com on Feb 24, 2013 16:47:32 GMT -5
i thnk really i would just enjoy bumping the rear sway to itr 22mm
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Mikie
exist!!!!
Posts: 62
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Post by Mikie on Feb 24, 2013 19:42:36 GMT -5
Oem is best that's for sure. Perfect fitment, the price may be a bit more then expected but the quality of an oem product is the best.
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Post by bbluder on Feb 24, 2013 20:43:40 GMT -5
95 Honda Prelude, stock it already handles great, in fact there's a lot of ways I could make it handle worse by modding it. But I wouldn't mind enhancing a few things. Currently running Bilstein struts with some unknown lowering spring and I enjoy the stiff ride so probably don't need to upgrade from that. Also beefed up my rear as it was wandering last year: ES sway bar bushings, new rear end links, rear strut tower bar. What I wouldn't mind enhancing though:
-Polyurethane Energy Suspension Bushings All-Around (Master Bushing Kit) - $200
-Innovative 75a Motor Mounts - $330 New & shipped, or used I could get for <$200 shipped
-Front Strut Tower Bar
-Traction bar - ~$500 (Optional for me though...pretty sure I don't need one for a stock H22. ES bushings, Innovative mounts and spring/strut set up should take care of most of the wheel hop)
New-ish cars probably don't need bushing upgrading, at least not right away, but when the OEM ones are shot 10+ years down the road like on my car, OEM are a b**** to take off...and the Energy ones are so easy to install it's like connecting lego blocks. No press needed...no reason why not to go with aftermarket in that case.
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fugu
exist!!!!
Posts: 97
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Post by fugu on Feb 24, 2013 20:50:35 GMT -5
Spec Miata Suspension  |
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fugu
exist!!!!
Posts: 97
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Post by fugu on Feb 24, 2013 20:50:51 GMT -5
Double post. My bad
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Post by Jiggypop.com on Feb 24, 2013 21:48:10 GMT -5
I really like what's available for miatas I wish I had one to play with. my parents have one for summer days but it needs some stuff for sure just to make it enjoyable. damn.
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fugu
exist!!!!
Posts: 97
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Post by fugu on Feb 24, 2013 23:21:25 GMT -5
Yeah it's almost a shame to not take the power farther and the handling farther still. The car is such a great baseline to start with.
The Spec suspension is adjustable though! Should be fun finding the sweet spot.
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Post by pineapple on Feb 25, 2013 1:01:04 GMT -5
It all depends what you are trying to achieve for the car. Street and track is two different worlds. I like running konis w/ a lowering spring that's not too aggressive for the street. On the Ek I run quantum coil overs with swift springs. But that car rarely sees any street miles.
Would love to have the spoon n1 coils, todas, or even motons.
Mike get rid of the tokikos as those are garbage. Was not very satisfied with the blues or the whites. And don't even think of running the beaks kit. If you upgrade your sway bar just run an ASR or function 7 kit.
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Post by Beans on Feb 25, 2013 1:15:18 GMT -5
I'm running this for my suspension setup
K-Sport Pro Coilovers 10k front and 8k rear
ALL New Suspension OEM Bolts
Energy Suspension Master Bushing Kit
New OEM Balljoints
New Energy Suspension Motor Mount Inserts
New Energy Suspension Sway Bar Bushings
Moog Front and Rear Endlinks
Neuspeed Front Tower Bar
Tanabee Rear Tower Bar
I'd like to get bigger sway bars in the back.... but the prelude already has stock 23mm in the back and 25mm in the front.
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Mikie
exist!!!!
Posts: 62
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Post by Mikie on Feb 25, 2013 1:23:25 GMT -5
Ryan is that youuu? Sup brothaa!
Only reason I'd want the beaks kit over a ASR brace or F7 is just to be low key. OEM Type R LCA's with type R rear sway bar. Maybe a spoon n1 and spoon lower tie bar... Simply to keep attention away
Knawm sayin
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Post by pineapple on Feb 25, 2013 1:29:09 GMT -5
Yep it's me! Beaks kit is ok if you're running a sway bar smaller than 22mm. But if you do run 22 and up, you may experience some sub frame tear. When you run the reinforcement kit you also don't need to run a lower tie bar as the sub frame brace achieves the same thing. After that its just dead weight or bling. If you want low key, paint it black. I believe both function 7 an ASR have anodized black versions now.
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keegzrz
look at me now
Locks so lucious even bears want my porridge.
Posts: 198
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Post by keegzrz on Feb 25, 2013 1:31:41 GMT -5
shit, I guess I was off on my specs.
Stock rear swaybar is hollow and rings in at 16mm.(I believe)
The whiteline swaybar upgrade is solid and 20mm.
Also, some questionable sources say that the front swaybar on the 3rd gen is 25.4mm hollow. If that truly is the case, I might look at picking up the whiteline 24mm front as well after testing out the larger rear.
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